비정수압 SWASH 모형을 이용한 해운대 해수욕장의 파랑변형 및 해빈류 수치모의

Abstract

This study is aimed at numerical simulation of the seasonal wave deformation and the wave-induced currents using the SWASH model in Haeundae Beach. Wave data and measurement data are obtained from the KHOA and the MOF. Measurement data are used to be compared with the simulation results calculated by the SWASH model. During the summer season, the most dominant wave direction is the south. The simulation results in summer season show that wave induced currents flow from Dongbaek Island to Mipo Harbor and offshore currents appear in the center of Haeundae Beach. During the winter season, the most dominant wave direction is the east-south-east. The simulation results in winter seasons show that wave induced currents flow from the center of the Heaundae Beach to the Dongback Island and to the Mipo Harbor. The simulation results calculated by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with measurement data and the advanced research using the BOUSS-2D model. The SWASH model can calculate the maximum wave run-up. The SWASH results are compared with the video monitoring data and the empirical formulas that was proposed by Stockdon et al. and Mase. Maximum wave run-up could be caught by using a video monitoring system. Also, The location of Maximum run-up can be approximated to swash mark by the video monitoring system. As a result, the maximum wave run-up using the SWASH model yielded small difference from the inference results using the video monitoring system and the results calculated using the empirical formulas proposed by Stockdon et al.