모피 패션의 미적특성에 관한 연구

Abstract

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics and historical changes of fur fashion, and identify aesthetic characteristics of fur fashion in order to analyze how these characteristics have been expressed in recent fashion collections. And this study can help understand current trend in fur fashion and provide data for designing fur fashion products. As study methods, fashion-related books, literature review was conducted based on previous research and books on history of fur fashion, and relevant internet data, and fur fashion pictures were collected from 『Collection Dong-A TV』as a case study. For historical change of fur fashion, the research scope ranged from the ancient time to the 20thcentury and, for aesthetic characteristics of fur fashion in recent collections, 382pictures of F/W seasons from 2010 o2015, were analyzed. The results were as follows: First, fur was the first material to be used for clothing, and is distinguished from fur-less leather as it uses natural skin or processed felt. Despite the high price and difficult storage and washing, fur is popular because of its durability, warmth, soft texture, and luster. Characteristics of fur include warmth retention, persistence, environmentally-friendliness, applicability, and fashion quality, and types of fur include mink, fox, raccoon, and sable. As processing methods, dying, conditioning, shaping, shearing, plucking, and laser, and the manufacturing process in general starts with precipitation to fleshing, washing, tanning, and shaving. Second, in terms of historical changes of fur fashion, during the ancient Egypt and Middle Ages, shamanism was found in fur fashion as a result of importance of religion at that time, especially in leopard ceremony uniform which was worn by a priest or royal family for national rituals in ancient Egypt and marten and marten and ermine tunic decorated luxuriously with Byzantine Christian elements in the Middle Ages. However, as natural environment and religious wishes no longer have the same importance in modern society, shamanism was not observed in fur fashion. And, fur fashion also represented authority in the ancient Egypt, Rome, and Renaissance, when social classes were clearly defined, especially in the black leopard fur worn by ancient Egyptian royal family on top of a tunic, wool worn by Roman delegates on top of a toga and pelity worn by senators, and fur costumes decorated with marten and ermine by the Renaissance aristocrats to display their family and status. However, as the social class system disappeared, authority was not significantly observed in modern fur fashion. Extravagance was found in Gothic, Rococo, and modern fashion, especially in pourpoint and houppelande decorated with black marten worn by aristocrats during the Gothic era, and fleece and pelerine with the edges decorated with black marten that was fashionable among aristocrat women during the Rococo era. And, in 1980, with the appearance of yuppies in the 1980s, people began to wear to boast their wealth and glamorous and large fur coats made by high-end brands emphasized extravagance. And, in Rococo and modern fur fashion, sensuality was observed, as mostly feminine fur clothes revealed cleavage and neck by using decolletage, and fur was used on delicate lace dresses to emphasize the revealed areas for sensual effects. In the modern era, with development of technology, fur clothes became slim and fitting in silhouette as shown in tight fur jackets and dresses, emphasizing the curve and sensuality of women's figure. In neoclassicism and the 1950s , elegance was observed in fur fashion, especially in fleece decorated with luxurious materials like white fox and Siberian wolf in neoclassicism, and fur dresses and two-piece suits designed by Dior and Edward mollynox in the 1950s. Third, aesthetic characteristics found in recent fashion collections included extravagance, sensuality, elegance, activity, humor, monstrosity, and vulgarity. Extravagance was observed in long and glamorous fox coat, colorful fur jacket, and purple fox fur coat, and long fur coat with white, gray, and black leopard patterns, designed by Michael Kors, Fendi, Gucci, etc. Sensuality was found in beige fur coat that is soft and rich, looking as if it was real skin, fur dress revealing the upper body by decorating see-through fabric with black fur, and fur dress revealing the chest, waist, arms, thighs, and legs by adding fur trimming to see-through dress, designed by Saint Raurent, Alexander Mcqueen, Victor & Rolf , etc. Elegance was observed in mink dress with the silhouette flowing along the figure by using lustrous black mink, subtle and feminine pink beige fur dress, minimally-decorated soft beige jacket using lustrous fox fur, and long silver fox scarf designed by Michael Kors, Louis Vuittion, Marc Jacobs, etc. Activity was found in mink jacket using light and thin mink with short body and sleeves, mini-skirt with side pockets made with soft and light fur, and short fur jacket with rubber band and zippers, designed by Les Copains, Fendi, Marc Jacobs, etc. Humor was observed in fur jacket with exaggerated shoulders with long olive fox fur, unique mink fur warmer connecting the jacket sleeves and gloves, black mink dress with a slim silhouette, and bright pink mink coat made by using unique processing methods, designed by Schiaparelli, Fendi, Alexander Wang, etc. Monstrosity was found in fur coat with ambiguous structural shape in the body, sleeves, and opening by using fur patterns, unique fur accessory that connects the hat and top, clothes in which fur was used from the bottom of the jacket to the shoes, and exaggerated fur coat in which the collar covers the entire upper body, designed by Victor & Rolf, Chanel, Fendi, etc. Vulgarity was observed in fur skirt with mixed blue and black fur and irregular cuts, grungy fur coat with loose silhouette and patchwork of toned-down khaki and beige fur, cheap-looking fur coat with loose silhouette and gray and charcoal fur, bright green dress and leopard pattern sunglasses, purple gloves, orange bag, and large leopard shawl, designed by Dsquared, 3.1 Phillip Lim, etc. Fourth, in terms of aesthetic characteristics found from the ancient time to recent fashion collections, shamanism and authority was found only from the ancient and pre-modern fur fashion, but not in modern fur fashion, because shamanism is a characteristic found as a result of significance of nature and religion in uncivilized society, and, therefore, natural environment and religious wishes do not have much value in modern society that is focused on reason and separated from nature. Also, authority was not in modern fur fashion as well, because the class system was an important tool to express people's status in the ancient and modern eras, but, in contemporary society, there is no clear social class system and people express themselves based on individuality and personal preferences. However, extravagance, sensuality, and elegance was observed from the ancient time until the recent fashion collections, because of the characteristics of fur as a fashion material such as luxuriousness, scarcity, soft texture, and warmth retention. Nevertheless, these aesthetic characteristics were modified in a way that is more suitable for contemporary women. In other words, while fur was mainly used as a decorative element for trimming, etc., to express extravagance, in the contemporary society, colorful dyed fur and thinly processed fur are used for making overcoats. To express sensuality, in the past, fur clothes mainly exaggerated the shape or emphasized the revealed areas, while, recently, thin and soft fur is used for revealing the curves of human body. Also, to express elegance, in the past, fur was used for decoration by trimming, etc., but, in contemporary fashion, high-end silver and beige lustrous fur is used for making overcoats, as a result of developed processing, sewing, and dying techniques. Also, activity, humor, monstrosity, and vulgarity were observed as aesthetic characteristics in recent fur fashion. It was because post-modernist fashion since the 1980s led to personalization, independence, and diversification of fashion, and, thereby, punk, androgynous, and avant-garde looks. The finding ssuggest that fur fashion and its aesthetic characteristics have changed according to social and cultural factors.