문헌에 나타난 패턴 제도용 표준치수 연구

Abstract

Clothing is a three-dimensional structure worn on human body and in order to find the exact fit of the garment on human body, the change in clothing pattern should be considered in close relation to the change in body type. Especially, pattern prototype, which is the basic pattern that is applied in various ways, has to reflect even the slightest changes in the size of human body. Currently, as years of research proved, Koreans’ body type is turning into western body type due to the changes in eating habit and westernized life style. Under the circumstances where body type is being westernized and changing constantly, accurately figuring out the changing size of body and applying it to patterns is thought to be a research project that should continuously be reflected in the development of the female adult patterns. In this sense, the standard of literature to be collected was set as the literature that includes bodice original patterns among pattern textbooks for adult females. No limitations were given in the range of collecting literature, which spans from the literature that is available in the market to books that are out of print but are available in libraries. The standard of literature to be collected was set as the literature that contains necessary size items, regardless of basic size. AS for the data for the standard body size of Koreans, among the research reports on body size provided by Size Korea, the 3rd ~ 6th research reports that were written from 1992 to 2010 were referenced. In this research, the part on direct measurements in the report of human body size was referenced. As for the objects of data to be collected, data on women aged 20~24 was selected. The collected items are 7 items that were mentioned in the 3rd report, in the part about figures that are used in basic drawing lines in pattern drawing: waist back line, circumference, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, front interscye, back interscye, and scye depth. This study examined the use of standardized terms of necessary figure items and the frequency of necessary figure items shown in the literature, and could find necessary figure items required in the pattern drawing. Also, it compared the size of main items gained from literature and the research on Koreans’ body size and reviewed the factors of body type that should be considered in the drawing of tops for women. It was found that as Korea adult female body type is westernized, bust circumference is increasing, and accordingly neck point to breast point and bust point-bust point are also increasing. Meanwhile, in terms of pattern drawing shown in literature, items related to bust showed the tendency to decrease in size. It is thought to be because tight fitting is pursued as there is less room between human body and pattern, and patterns are drawn to make bust seem more gathered and higher than it actually is so that when the pattern is worn, it would create a silhouette improved from the actual human body. For this reason, it was found to be important to set the size of bust circumference as the necessary figure item in pattern drawing, as bust circumference, one of the necessary figure items, is the major factor that affects the creation of the form of patterns.