제작조건에 따른 플라운스 스커트의 형상분석

Abstract

This research study examined the direction of trends for flounce decorations, and by manufacturing a prototype skirt with flounce decorations on the hem, this research examined the influence of the length and the angle of the flounce decoration and the differences between tailoring methods according to number of layers used to manufacture the skirts on the three dimensional shapes of the flounce for the prototype skirts. The objective of this research study is to provide a basic research reference that helps to predict an optimally appropriate three dimensional shape when creating and manufacturing designs based on the comparative analysis of 18 circular flounce skirts with different flounce arrangement designs. This research study manufactured 18 circular flounce skirts with flounce arrangement designs of differing depth, tailoring angles and layers using the manufacture the flounce, and by comparatively analyzing the changes in the cross section of the hem of the circular flounces according to manufacturing conditions, the shape of the flounces according to the pattern design conditions of the circular flounce were attempted to be predicted. The flounce skirts examined in this research study had a one dart design in the front side and a two dart design on the rear side with straight belts with a width of 3cm attached at the waist with a zipper attached to the rear center of the skirt. The lengths of the template design skirts were set to 40cm with flounces of the sizes 10cm, 15cm and 20cm added to the ends of the skirt. The template design skirts examined in this research study referenced and modified template design skirts proposed in skirt and pants apparel making practices. The depths of the circular flounces were set to the 3 lengths of 10cm, 15cm and 20cm. The tailoring angles for the flounce were set to the 2 angles of 270° and 360°. The seam line was adjusted to 90cm, and the radii for the pattern design for the 270° flounce and 360° flounce were set to 19.1 cm and 14.3cm, respectively. The number of composite layers for the circular flounce were set as 1, 2, 3, and 4 layers. Flounces made of 1 or 2 layers were aligned in the lengthwise direction of the grain of the fabric based on the front center, and the designs for flounces made of 4 layers were aligned based on both the front and back centers. According to the objectives of this research, to provide basic research reference for the effect that the manufacturing conditions of various circular flounces have on the shape of flounces, the most basic fabric textile, which is a 40 yarn count cotton cloth with a width of 160cm, was used to manufacture the skirts. The sewing machine used to manufacture the flounce skirts was an industrial grade Brother sewing machine with a thread trimmer, which was used with Youm Kwang spun polyester 100% 40’s/2. The dial for the distances between stitches was set to 2.5. All seams were seamed stitched, and because the volume and shape of the edge of the flounce are influenced according to how the edges of the flounce were finished, this research study finished the tailoring of the skirt using a method that does not influence the flounce in this way by using modern fabric textiles that prevent the finished stitch line from unraveling. The static silhouette of the front side and the shape of the bottom of the hem of the skirt prototypes were photographed. The height of the dummy was fixed at 182cm, and in order to indicate the scale of the shape of the hem, a 10cm long piece of tape was attached to the bottom of the dummy. To photograph the static silhouette of the front side, the lens of the camera was calibrated to be horizontal at a height of 100cm. The photograph of the front side static silhouette was taken by focusing on the seam line between the flounce and skirt. To photograph the shape at the hem, the lens of the camera was calibrated to be vertical at a height of 40cm. The front side silhouette of the flounce skirt obtained from the photograph was used to measure the angles of the flounce on both sides of the hem using the ‘Measure Tool’ in Adobe Illustrator CS5. The photograph of the hem of the flounce skirt was used to sketch a hem silhouette using Adobe Illustrator CS5. The shape of the hem was sketched according to real life scale by zooming into the photograph using the tape scale guidelines attached to the bottom of the dummy. Using the cross sectional sketch of the flounce skirt from the profile sketch, the 5 factors to evaluate, which include the width of the cross section, the thickness of the cross section, the number of nodes, the width of the nodes and the depth of the nodes, were measured. Measurements for each of the factors were taken 3 times each. The results confirmed that the width of the cross section and the thickness of the cross section of the flounce skirt were proportional to the depth of the flounce. As the depth and tailoring angle of the flounce grew bigger, the difference between the width of the cross section and the thickness of the cross section grew larger as well which means that the horizontal forces exerted on the flounce decoration grew larger and also that the shape of the cross section became an oval shape that was longer widthwise. As the number of layers used to manufacture the flounce increased, the width of the cross section increased and the thickness decreased. There were more nodes observed as the depth of the flounce was shortened, and as the tailoring angle increased, the number of nodes located front and rear in relation to 45° degree division line increased while the number of nodes on either side decreased. When the number of layers used to manufacture the flounce increased, the number of nodes on either side was the most heavily influenced and resulted in an increase in the number of nodes. The width and depth of the nodes increased as the depth of the flounce increased, and when the angle of tailoring increased, the width of the nodes decreased showing an inversely proportionate relationship with the depth of the nodes which increased. The results confirmed that changes in the number of layers used to manufacture the flounce did not have a significant influence on the width and depth of the nodes.