어깨 경사도에 따른 소매유형별 블라우스의 착의 선호도 연구

Abstract

The study utilized wear test and surveys to conduct fit and preference evaluation for sleeve types according to shoulder angle for the preferences on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The results of the study are as follows. First, the shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, sloping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to the sewing construction. The tested blouses were referred from apparel teaching material which included set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves, and kimono. A total of 15 blouses were tested with different bodice and sleeve types. Second, wear tests were the evaluation for human subjects wearing the apparel. The evaluation was conducted to explore the appearance preference and satisfaction on wear sensation. The test had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing and also evaluate the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The results of wear test showed that set-in had scored the highest in the appearance test but the lowest in the wear sensation test. Kimono placed in the lowest for the appearance test but the highest in the wear sensation test. For the shoulder angle types, average shoulders preferred set-in the most in appearance test while preferred kimonos the most for the wear sensation test. Slopping shoulders preferred set-in for the appearance test while preferred kimono the most for the wear sensation test. Square shoulders preferred raglan the most in appearance test while preferred kimono the most in wear sensation test. All shoulder angle types showed that kimonos had a higher evaluation in wear sensation than appearance test. On the other hand, set-in had higher appearance test than the wear sensation test. For raglan, however, while average shoulders and sloping shoulders gave fair evaluations for the wear sensation, square shoulders evaluated its wear sensation in low scores. Third, preference surveys were given to females and were conducted using photos with the subjects wearing the blouses with three types of sleeves. As seen from the average value of 20% or more results in the preference selection ratio of the shoulder angle and sleeve type for blouses, average shoulders showed a high preference for A and B blouse. Square shoulders too had a high rate in choosing E, but chose C for set-ins and D for raglans. E, which had ranked highly by both slopping shoulders and square shoulders, was a design which removed dot when developing into raglan and kimono patterns with extra room for supplementing the body types. Fourth, according to the surveys of preference test of blouses by shoulder angles, set-in ranked the first with 43% selection among average shoulders. The second had 38%, and the third was the kimono with 37%. Slopping shoulders were chosen raglan, which had the highest preference of 42%. The second was kimonos(46%) and the third was set-in(42%). The square shoulders were chosen raglan (39%) the most. The second was kimono (47%), and third was set-in (44%) Fifth, when comparing the appearance test and the surveys, set-in, which had the highest score for appearance test among average shoulders, placed number 1 in the surveys. Slopping shoulders scored set-in the highest in appearance test, but raglan scored the highest in surveys. Square shoulders showed uniform results as raglan scored the highest for both appearance test and surveys. Sixth, as the result of repeated measure ANOVA, the average shoulders preferred set-in the most, while the slopping shoulders and the square shoulders preferred raglan the most. The preference of design according to shoulder angle had statistically significant differences.