여자 배자 선호도에 따른 패턴 연구

Abstract

A study on the patterns of the women's baeja according to preferences

Oak Hee Park

Department of Fashion Design, The Graduate School, Pukyong National University

Abstract

This study is to research women's latest most favorite baeja design, analyze the baeja pattern and suggest the best pattern drafting method that has finest preference and fitting. For this, study method was to investigate records of different design types, and as a result recently preferred contemporary baeja design was divided largely as the opposite collars type and the mokpan collars type, short length and long length, and as for the having and not having fasteners, itdivided into knot buttons and breast-tie. Also, fur decoration showed as favored. Such contemporary baeja design shows in three types, and the most frequently showing type is the opposite collars with waist length and knot buttons collars, and the next was the opposite collars with waist length and without fur decoration, and the third was the mokpan collars with waist length that fastens with breast-tie. After detailed pattern analysis, six out of five instructional patterns from hanbok construction books excluding W6 had the short opposite collar, no fastener, and collar included in shoulder width so no independence collar. W6 is a pattern with independent and long with fastener. This is a big difference from contemporary baeja pattern. It is a drafting method that does not have the function of draping pattern with back of the collar without height at the back of neck. In comparison, four maker and researcher patterns have independent collars, fasteners, and have height at back of neck at the back of the collar point, and it is a design that utilizes body functionality. Based on pattern analysis, ten baeja samples for test were made. The survey took place for a month from September 1st2013to30th,and targeted 113 people composed of 50 hanbok experts and 63 non-experts. For the method of analyzing data, used SPSS Ver. 18.0 to do Multiple Response Analysis, χ2-test, Fisher's Exact test and t, F-test and Scheffe verification. The conclusion of analyzing the survey of preference and fitting of test baeja was as following. First, interest in hanbok according to demographic factors had significant difference, and the group with most interest was hanbok designer and lecturers. They also were the highest knowledge level. Also, experts had more hanboks compared to non-experts. The reason for wearing baeja in both groups was to dress up, but it was higher in non-experts compared to experts. The reasons for wearing baeja for experts were compared to non-experts, in order of dress up, formality, in replacement of durumagi, and trend. Second, preferred design according to whether or not the person's expert had significant difference. Non-experts preferred the opposite collarsof the test comparative, but experts preferred the mokpan collars of the test comparative. It had difference according to marital status. Single preferred the opposite collars of the test comparative, and married preferred the mokpan collars of the test comparative. There was difference of preferred design according to the level of interest in hanbok, and the group with low interest preferred the opposite collars of the test comparative, and the group with high interest preferred the mokpan collars of the test comparative. However, there was no difference in preferred design based on the reason for wearing baeja, and in general preferred the mokpan collars of the test comparative. Third, general front fitting had significant difference, and experts and non-experts all preferred the fitting of the mokpan collar of the test comparative. Test baeja no. 2 and 5 were the lowest. General side fitting also had difference according to the design, and both experts and non-experts preferred the mokpan collars of the test comparative, and test baeja no.2 and 5 were the lowest. General fitting of back also had difference according to the design, and both experts and non-experts preferred the opposite collars and mokpan collars of the test comparatives. The test baeja no.2 and 5 were the lowest. As for the whole fitting, experts preferred the opposite collars and the mokpan collars of the test comparatives, and test baeja no.2 and 5 were the lowest. Non-experts preferred the Min fashion, the test maker, and the opposite collars and the mokpan collars of the test comparatives. The test baeja no.2 and 5 were the lowest. Forth, as for the preferred design, non-experts chose the opposite collars of the test comparative, and experts chose the mokpan collars of the test comparative. Preferred design according to interest showed that the group with low interest chose the opposite collars of the test comparative, and the group high interest chose the mokpan collars of the test comparative. Therefore the mokpan collars baeja, which got the best ratings in every category, is the best baeja pattern that reflects the trend of longer baeja following the longer jeogori and supplements limits of the flat pattern.