데님 패션에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study aims to investigate the characteristics of denims and denim dresses, and analyze the denim fashion reflected in collections in 2000 and thereafter. To this end, documentary research and case study were involved. To examine the origin and definition of the term “denim,” its types and characteristics, formative characteristics and aesthetic values of denim dress in the 19th and 20th centuries, a documentary research was conducted based on fashion dictionaries, domestic and overseas books on denims and dresses, previous theses, online information, and so forth. To analyze the denim fashion images reflected in the Paris, Milan, London and New York collections from 2000/01 F/W to 2012/13 F/W, a case study was conducted based on the 1,958 denim fashion photos published in a fashion magazine entitled 「Gap」. The findings are as follows: First, denim is made from the cotton fabric of twill. The term originated from the French word “serge de Nimes” in the 17th century. The types of denim were classified depending on their structure, processing method, decorative technique, and new material development. Their texture, luster, color, weight, thickness, etc. were different depending on the types. Denim may be classified under brocen, stretch, sports, jacquard woven, and corset denim depending on the structure; wash out, stone wash, wild stone, stone bleach, snow wash, bleach out, sand blast, fashion chemical, and soft denim depending on the processing method; dyeing, painting, printing, patchwork, detail, trimming, cut off, embroidery, and stitch denim depending on the decorative technique; mess, wool/lycra, tencel, maifan stone fabric, lyocell, far-infrared radiation, and wide stretch denim depending on the developed new material. Second, the investigation of denim dresses in the 19th and 20th centuries shows that the formative characteristics and aesthetic values of the denim dress have changed over time. In the mid-19th century, the denim dress was a working suit, mostly loose and slack overalls. In the 1920's, zippers and belt loops were added to denim pants; thus, denim started to be recognized as ordinary clothing with functionality and practicality. In the 1930's, denim pants of boot cut silhouettes symbolized the patience and resilience of those overcoming the Great Depression. In the 1940's, denim was distributed to women during the war, and its aesthetic values of American wealth and modernity were recognized. In the 1950's, as movies and rock-n-roll emerged, tight-fit silhouette denim pants, which stood for youth and resistance, became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who resisted the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants of flare silhouettes, which symbolized peace and freedom. In the 1970's, as unisex clothes became popular, denim symbolized populist ideas and equality. In the 1980s-90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, decoration, extravagance, reactionary tendency, variety, and so forth. Third, an analysis of denim fashion images in the Paris, Milan, London, and New Work collections from 2000/01 F/W to 2012/13 F/W shows that a number of designers used denim fashion to represent classic, romantic, elegant, sporty, sophisticated, ethnic, avant-garde, sexy, and vintage image. 1) The classic image involved H-shaped silhouette pants, skirts, and suits with such colors as indigo blue and black, and raw and wash-out denim, both top and bottom, to represent conservative and typical images. 2) Romantic images involved X-shaped silhouette jacket, pants, skirt, and dresses with such colors as white, ice blue, indigo blue, and navy, and materials like gradation denim and faded denim. Details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations were added to represent pretty and lovely images. 3) Elegant images involved H-shaped silhouette shirts, skirts, dresses, and suits with colors including gray and gray blue, and materials such as soft and lossy denim. The use of details was minimized to represent classy and elegant images. 4) Sporty images involved loose H-shaped or tight-fit silhouette jumper, pants, shorts, and overalls with such colors as indigo blue and ice blue, and such materials as soft and light denim to represent pleasant and active images. 5) Sophisticated images involved H-shaped silhouette jackets, pants, and suits with such colors as dark gray and gray blue, and such materials as glossy denim to represent simple and urban images. 6) Ethnic images involved loose silhouette pants and skirts with such colors as bright indigo blue and navy, and such materials as wash-out denim. In addition, snags and printing techniques were added to represent exotic and mysterious images. 7) Avant-garde images involved deformed or over-layered jackets, pants, and skirts with such colors as black, indigo blue, and ice blue, and such materials as damaged denim clothes, to which snags, tearing, and cutting techniques were used to represent avant-garde images. 8) Sexy images involved straight-lined, tight-fit silhouette pants, dresses, body suit and shorts with such colors as black and indigo blue, and such materials as decolored denim. Laces and studs were added to represent sensual images. 9) Vintage images involved nonstructured lines and H-shaped silhouette pants, overalls, and suits with such colors as indigo blue and ice blue, and such materials as wash-out and wild stone denim. Tearing, snags, and painting techniques were added to represent unique and messy images.

Keywords: denim dress, denim fashion, fashion image